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This Is The Coolest Way to Wear Red Lipstick Right Now
BYRDIE UK:How can you make a red lip look more cool girl and less retro?
REBECCA BUTTERWORTH:The cool-girl lip has an insouciance and a nonchalance to it. Intense colour paired with diffused edges or a definite texture (car paint high shine or powdered matte) separate the modern lip from the overly precise, stamped-on retro lip.
BYRDIE UK: What other factors come into play?
RB:Red lips are all about context! Cool girls need to look like the lipstick is swiped on as an afterthought (even if the actual process is totally the opposite!), so a "done" eye or opaque, matte skin is a no-no. Let every single one of your freckles show through. Skin should be as raw and real as possible to offset the perfection of a red lip.
BYRDIE UK:What eye makeup should you consider to keep it super modern?
RB:If you can cope with the idea of going without mascara, this is the best way to keep it absolutely modern. Curl lashes, gloss your eyelid with a slick of highlighter or lip balm and you're good to go. Alternatively, if you can't live without your mascara, make it a second focus and layer it on for a post-punk feel.
BYRDIE UK: Do you need a lip liner?
RB:Opacity is a really important step in the making of a modern lip and a lip liner that matches the colour of your chosen red is crucial for a clean, opaque finish.
BYRDIE UK: The new shape seems to be more curved on the Cupid's bow—how can someone create this look that isn’t their natural lip shape?
RB:Using a brush will make this easier. Try out a brush that has a curved edge because it'll do so much of the work for you. My go-to brush is actually an eyeshadow brush—the MAC 248 Small Eye Shader Brush (£21). It's flexible with a slender profile and a rounded edge. Use the rounded edge to stamp the curved shape onto your Cupid's bow.
BYRDIE UK: How should you find the right red for your skin tone?
RB:The following is a good rule of thumb:
o Brick red: warm, undertoned skin. [Ed note: Try Bobbi Brown , £21]
o Orange red: blue eyes, brown eyes and deep, warm skin tones [Ed note: Try MAC Lipstick in Lady Danger, £16]
o Blue red: green eyes, cool undertoned skin [Ed note: Try Charlotte Tilbury , £23]
o Neutral postbox red: everyone! [Ed note: Try Revlon , £8].
Byrdie UK: What are your tips for getting a high-shine finish versus a modern matte (nottoomatte but definitely not sheeny)?
RB:High shine is back in a big way. Modern women want extremes of texture that make definite statements. MAC Lipglass Clear (£15) is the ultimate shine-maker. It's Perspex shine in a tube. For a modern matte, take cues from old-school makeup techniques: Separate a tissue into one ply and blot your lip colour. While the tissue is still covering the lips, dust a layer of loose transparent powder on top.
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